Видео

Cool timer. Where did you find it?

This was an excellent explanation/tutorial. Thank you for sharing.

I did a lot of thing in my life but not welding....Dammm than welding table you got make me want to start

Absolutely fascinating! I'd love to see what you can make with this beautiful machine. Many years ago I trained as an engineer and did an apprenticeship in a machine shop. Finished up in a very different career but I still get a thrill from seeing machines like these.

If you have the extra money I would choose a JET bandsaw, I toiled with the $200 version for years and when I switched locations I popped the extra bucks and I'm glad I did, the extra wide blade, extra size along with extra rigidity is a blessing. I also opt for the calipers with carbide jaws, both inner and outer, these act as indestructible scribers. Good video, I see way too many people using a hand hacksaw when they could save a s-load of time buying a chaep cutoff saw.

How I can contact you?

Very well explained. Let me suggest a marking in the grip area such that we could visually see which end of the coupon was in the bottom of the chamber and which in the top. I would like to know how ambient temps effects layer adhesion. My assumption is the higher chamber temps (up to some optimum) for some (all?) materials will tend to result in better layer adhesion. Also consider the bed is sinking heat up into the part so just because a segment was printed higher in the stratus of chamber temp does not mean the next lay went down on a warmer layer before it. Printing with different relative part cooling fan settings would be in the family of testing these kinds of ideas. I run a UAS lab just down the hall from a materials test facility where this kind of work is done which should lend absolutely no weight to my suggestions. ;-) Stimulating problems to consider.

I think that you need a better platform than a vice, now that you'd need to reverse the jaws every time. Also, like another commenter suggested, you need to automate the cranking, to ensure the consistent speed. And re-engineer the sensor to decouple display refresh rate from sampling...

I’m a fitter and turner, make it work, who cares what it looks like

You RUclips people want it look good! Just make it work

Thank you, the solid review I was looking for!

That was fun, I love breaking stuff!

As someone who is looking to get into Fusion, this is stellar on the detail. I love you clear you made it and I can’t wait to expand my skills using this as a learning tool. I can’t thank you enough for how great this is.

Great videos! I hope you can continue bringing us along on this project, I would love to see how this makeshift tensile tester could be made reliable.

Lovely case. Will have to keep GF in mind.

8:40 mEaT BeTwEeN ThE NuT

For the ASA in the X1C, increase the bed temp. I generally run 100C with the textured plate. Also if you aren’t, use the gold textured plate as it’s thicker than the original texture plate Bambu had.

The fumes from Lasering ABS are very toxic. Ideally you never cut/engrave ABS with a Laser, but use a fully enclosed Chamber with full outside venting and filtering at a minimum.

I've been using fusion for about a year now, and I always learn something new every time I watch someone else use it. I have never used the hole tool for making screw holes. I can't imagine how many hours I've wasted by manually countersinking holes and making chamfers in them.

I still don’t see the point of this.

one should never say in a video the key words "key Google OR Alexa or Hi Siri" -- it will always trigger them... beside that -- love the content :)

James, this was an excellent couple of videos. An iterative application of the scientific method applied to step wise refinement resulting in a successful outcome. Failure is a great teacher.

Nice. A thought; do you really need to long press to zero the force meter, isn't it enough to just click it?

It's enough to make a grown man cry

I would think you could just print a thicker clear layer instead of inserting a white layer as a diffuser. Clear doesn't really print totally clear and would act as a diffuser on it's own. I think you'd get more light transmission that way and still have the same diffusion effect.

Im still convinced this is Louis C.K.'s brother.

Kudos to you for posting failures . Let the ego go and choose to learn and gain skills

I wonder if you put a layer of white as a second layer will make it brighter

What's really interesting is the sonic qualities of the material that is. 3d printed. I recently made parts for an Instrument due to hearing the dull ping I often heard after a print against another material on collision. The results were really great I. Improving the. Sonic qualities

How important is the ribbing to the warping ?, also , would increasing the bed temperature of bed and sealed enclosure temperature help too ? Maybe some test prints with long X beams ?

Frankly, James, if you publish a video of a method or design that doesn't work which teaches us something it is always worth publishing 😊.

You need to automate the speed you pull with. Every parameter matters. I was an engineering intern at a research institution where they had an entire array of Instron machines for dynamic tensile testing. Unfortunately, I didn't get the opportunity to use any of them because there was no plan for what I was supposed to do there. A royal waste of time.

Maybe test your setup for repeatability/linearity etc. by stretching a spring. Turns on the vice handle give you the amount the spring is stretched. A suitable spring working within its limits should give a repeatable force result per unit of stretch.

I'd try to add some freedom to the rotation of the sample ends, maybe the round design was trying to do something like that but the printing quality could affect that, layer lines catching and all that. Swapping the nut for a rod with a (threaded) cross hole could help, a bearing or ball end would be even better. A small flexing force could affect the measurements a lot, samples breaking on the same end even with printing direction swapped could suggest something like that. Pulling with rope could add more freedom, but resetting for a new sample a bit more laborious for a lot of them, and space constrained with this setup. In any case, could be an easy alternative to swap the bolt you have now.

How about you make an arrow label or something saying which direction the vise nut is currently so you don't have to woory about remembering?

🙋🏻‍♂️ **from the back of the class** Um, I'd actually be interested to see how the tensile strength of filaments like PEEK, PEKK and PEI compare to the abs, nylon, etc. on your test rig.....maybe get some outsourced from xometry or PCBway...🤔

The last video wasn't a video featuring your failure, it was a video featuring your learning. Glad to see a conclusion to it!

Since you are testing plastic parts I wonder as far as vise wear is concerned if it really makes any difference reversing the nut. Not a whole lot of load,

Ive never wanted a laser engraver as much as i do now lol

I absolutely love the markforge Onyx GF filament (also the replicas of onyx GF from 3dextech) you're absolutely right the tolerance and end part quality is so good. I made a 25 hole and 32 hole plate for my 5C spindexer to increase its usability. Now using the 0° and 5° i can use it to make 32, 64, 25, and 50 tooth gears. Including the normal 36 hole plate, i can make about any division i realistically need in my home shop, and if i come across any oddball i can always print another dividing plate :D. The filament itself is plenty durable but if it really came down to it i can ultimately use them as stencils to make metal plates.

Kudos to all the folks who posted comments suggesting a design similar to what we ended up here. I had similar thoughts, but then didn't really have to name them, because multiple others had already done it. Nice to see that our collective thoughts worked out! And thank you, James, for posting the last video and this one, both. Looking forward to whatever's next (week)!

liking sample sizes in increments of ten...great stuff here!!

5:02 - is anyone else getting vibes of the "Recognizers" (I didn't even know that was what they were called, but looked them up) from TRON? Those evil machines that chased around, looking kinda like a C on its side, with serifs/claws/whatever? 😁

i like this one better but i think if you watch your video really close the load cell is what is causing it to break at the same end each time it bends sideways just slithery which adds more stress to one side.

Why didn't you modify your 'spare' vise instead of the working one ?

Never heard of abs-gf filament, but it looks interesting. I use PETG for most of my prints. Larger prints do warp, but I use mouse ears or tabs to fix that.

If those second two tests had broken 10N higher, you'd have an easy stressproof joke set up.

Why don't you use standard testing geometry on the speciment? Follow the ISO or Astm standards, and you should tension them slowly, as other have said, use a motor or drill. And logg the displacement. Just clamp a caliper on the jaws. Been Nice to see a top view of the testing process as well. But nice work, keep doing what you do. Failure is the best way to learn. Give me a shout, if you wan't the standards, i'we got them.😀

To further improve the handling of the samples, especially once they snapped, I would add a slit for easier removal/grabbing of the wider part. I think also a push-pin/-mechanism to lift/rotate the sample in the holder for easier access could be used. Alternative add a thin metal/plastic sheet below the sample, so that you can easily lift the leftover-sample in the holder. It looks somehow cumbersome to grab them once they snapped.

It may be useful to use a dial gage to measure the strain at failure.